The academic dress for a (male) Doctor of Philosophy in Finland contains:
The doctoral hat, which is specially hand-made for the purpose. You must go to the Wahlman hat shop/manufacturer in Helsinki and get your head measured with a device right out from the guide book for the Spanish inquisition ... Each Faculty has its own emblem (located in the front of the hat), and colour. For instance, medical people have green hats, theologians violet and so on. The Faculty of Science and Faculty of Humanistics together form the old Faculty of Philosophy, and share the same hat colour (black) and emblem (lyre in a laurel wreath).
The sword, which has the University Emblem in the hilt. It is nowadays made in Germany, and can be ordered from the Tillander Goldsmith shop in Helsinki. It has been designed by Axel Gallén-Kallela, a renowed Finnish artist of the National Romanticism era. The sword is normally used only in the doctoral promotion.
The tail-coat or "frakki", with black and white vests. Black vests are used in the day-time (before 6 pm) e.g. when one acts as an opponent or kustos (referee) in a dissertation. White vests are used after 6 pm, usually at dinners or other academic occasions. It is used by all, including students, but often a black-tie dress or equivalent is accepted, as buying or renting all the items in the dress is not cheap. Female doctors wear a dress which is black in the daytime, and an evening dress otherwise.
Misc.: Wrist-watches are not allowed with the tail-coat. The bowtie is always white. White gloves are also used, especially with the sword. Academic honours (student nation colours and medals etc.) can be used with the dress, except when it is specifically forbidden, as in doctoral promotions. In some occasions also national/international honours (medals) are used, either in "small" or "normal" size.
University of Helsinki emblem (the one that appears in the hilt of the sword).
The emblem of the "Satakuntalainen Osakunta" student nation.
